LFW Day 4 - KTZ SS14




As I gazed over the phenomenon that was KTZ’s (Kokon to Zai) crowd at their London Fashion Week show on Monday, it was as though looking out at their Worshipful Tribe. I can only image how Marjan Pejoski and co-designer Koji Maruyama feel knowing that they have somehow stimulated a global following. Their guests make up a unique mix of individuals, with front row seating the likes of Vince Kidd and A*M*E, as well as New York rapper Zebra Katz. As a big fan of the label, Kanye West was also expected to make an appearance, but nowhere to be seen.

“We’re children from National Geographic.” stated Pejoski on the reveal of their SS14 men’s collection back in June. Still inspired from their trip to North Africa, consumed by the wider spiritual and cultural landscape of the indigenous Berber people, they felt they had more to give. Injecting the excitement and energy surrounding menswear into this season’s womenswear, we saw a definite continuance. 

Lights dim and above the chatter of the crowd, a flight attendant is heard. We are about to be taken out of this world.
 Garments include a mix of skirts, leggings, oversized jackets and bodices, accompanied by the desert culture of long dresses, capes and head wraps. Centre point for print became Islamic mosaics usually found in Middle Eastern Mosques and North African interiors, which evolved into modern geometrics used to both embellish and decorate. Tribal layering and the sheer volumes of nomadic dresses were interpreted through florals, georgettes and pinstripes, and in true KTZ style, emblazoned with graphic symbol. 
Oversized and exaggerated traditional Berber jewellery, in a sharp silver finish, and gigantic earrings looped over the ears gave that head to toe edge everyone expects from KTZ.  

Among the scenes of billowing fabric, as you tear your eyes away from the previous look to be mesmerised by the next, you catch small glimpses of the audience. Most were head banging, captivated by a special mix from A-Trak, and consumed by the electric atmosphere that encompassed the BFC Showspace.    

My favourites would include their use of print and head gear. Amazing drapes and fold of fabric loosely hanging from caps, framing the models face, or concealing it entirely so only their eyes were visible. Baseball caps with a twist also made a great feature. Curved cap visors were almost sun hat-esque. Although elaborate (nothing wrong with making a statement) their looks are very wear-able.

With their out-of-this-world use of patterning, layering and chaotic fusion - here with ancient ethnic traditions with the radical – their SS14 womenswear sums up KTZ perfectly.

All in all, an Arabian inspired delight.

Tan xx

P.S Sorry for the delay, it's was a long one!



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